‘Ekmek var mı?’ It’s the title of the first unit in
my old Turkish language course book, ‘Teach
Yourself Turkish’. ‘Have you got any
bread?’ It’s a useful structure to learn when you’re living in, or even
just on holiday in a non-English-speaking country. ‘Have you got bottled water? Camera batteries? Have you got any of
those little masculine or feminine essentials I am desperately in need of?’
As
usual at this time of year, we are in Bodrum for our summer vacation. Bodrum is
a popular getaway spot, not only for urban Turks, but also for foreigners,
particularly English, who in recent years, attracted by the climate and
tempting property prices, have purchased holiday houses in the area. My morning
exercise is a cycle ride to the local village to buy simits for breakfast and a newspaper. The other day I was in the
bakery and the baker was patiently trying to serve the gentleman in front of me
who clearly knew not a word of Turkish. ‘Have
you got bread?’ He was asking, in his distinctive north country accent, and
the transaction continued with sign language and the baker’s limited stock of
English.
My
next stop was the hardware store down the road. As I was leaving, another
customer entered, and I caught the beginnings of the conversation. ‘I need a pump.’ ‘Ok, but today is Sunday.’ ‘Yes,
but I’m flying home tomorrow.’ The last I heard was the hardware guy
getting on the telephone to a plumber trying to organise something for this
foreigner who was totally dependent on his goodwill and knowledge of English.
‘So what?’ you’re saying. ‘You want to sell your product, you do what you gotta do. The customer
is always right.’ But let’s just reverse the situation. A guy from Turkey
goes into a shop in England, the USA or New Zealand. He can’t speak a word of
English (not a single word, not even please
or thank you!) but he’s got a
problem, or he wants to buy a few things. How much sympathy or assistance would
he get? Maybe I’m wrong, but I think, not much.
Now
I don’t know much about those guys, the baker and the hardware store guy – but
I suspect they are good Muslims, because in Turkey people of that class usually
are. They go to the mosque to pray at least every Friday, and probably more
often. They very likely fast during the month of Ramadan. They take seriously
the Prophet’s requirement to show hospitality to strangers, and feel
uncomfortable if they can’t give a positive response to the question, ‘What have you done for God today?’ People
like this make up a large proportion of Turkey’s population, and when they cast
their vote in elections, they naturally want it going to someone they feel is
sympathetic to their particular world-view.
Not
everyone in Turkey feels that way, however. The fear of Islamic fundamentalism
and extremism is almost as strong among secular middle class Turks as it is in
the United States – and perhaps with more reason, considering the nearer
proximity of scary neigbours given to stoning adulterers, denying a drivers’
license to women, and publicly whipping citizens for drinking a beer or other
alcoholic beverage.
I
have been hearing, since first coming to this country, that some of these neighbours,
resentful of Turkey’s secular democracy, channel a portion of their
petro-dollar wealth into undermining that hated system by, for example, paying Turkish
women to wear head-scarves and even to cover themselves from head to toe in
that particularly unattractive black garment that Turks call çarşaf or sheet. It may indeed be so.
Despite the fact that their ruling classes love to holiday in the liberal
atmosphere of Turkey’s classy urban streets and beach resorts, those Arab
elites do not show much sympathy for the aspirations of their own people to
greater social freedom.
Nevertheless,
they are Muslims, when all’s said and done, and we might expect them to show
more tangible support for Islamic brothers and sisters in other neighbouring
states when the opportunity arose. The media in Western nations was greatly excited when the so-called Arab Spring that blossomed in 2011 seemed about
to bring secular populist governments to power in the benighted lands of
Islamic oppression. The excitement turned to dismay, however, as grass roots
movements seemed in danger of installing Muslim Brotherhoods in place of
previous dictatorships, particularly in Egypt, one of the larger, more powerful
countries in the region.
Well,
you can understand that. Western Christendom has had a fear of, and antipathy
towards Islam since conquering Muslim armies spread through North Africa and
into Spain from the 8th and 9th centuries. When Muslim
Turkish tribes entered the region at the beginning of the 2nd
millennium CE and began pushing back the boundaries of the eastern
Roman/Byzantine Empire, the Pope in Rome felt obliged to unleash legions of crusading
knights to combat them. As the Ottoman Empire grew in the Eastern Mediterranean
and assumed leadership of the Islamic world, it required a determined union of
previously quarrelling Christian kings and princes to turn them back from
further encroachment. More recently, there’s been the business with al Qaeda and New
York’s World Trade Centre, so it’s not surprising that the Muslim religion and
its followers tend to get a bad press in the West.
However,
I confess to some confusion when I read in my newspaper yesterday that the
governments of Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates and Kuwait were providing
a $12 billion aid package to the newly installed regime in Egypt – the one
taking over after the Egyptian military overthrew the supposedly Muslim
Brotherhood government of Mohammed Morsi. According to an Associated Press correspondent reported on Yahoo News, ‘The Saudi king praised the military's move, and Anwar Gargash, the UAE's
minister of state for foreign affairs, wrote in a commentary posted on Foreign
Policy's website that "the rejection by Egyptians of their Islamist
government marks a turning point — not only for that country, but for the
entire Middle East." ‘
So
now I’m totally confused. The West supports democracy in the Middle East region
(and everywhere else, of course) as long as it doesn’t throw up elected
governments sympathetic to the aims and aspirations of the predominantly Muslim
populations. In that case, they prefer to support military dictatorships –
which have a tendency to get out of control and start oppressing their people
and attracting unwelcome attention from Western civil rights organisations,
which then pressure their own governments to intervene.
Arab
states with autocratic governments oppress their people with draconian shariah
laws involving public floggings, executions and amputation of body parts, but
are on the whole supported by Western states whose economies depend on their
oil and natural gas, and their readiness to purchase military hardware.
Arab
states with autocratic governments rule their people by means of hard-line
Islamic clerics and shariah law, and are accused of funding groups aiming to
undermine the secular integrity of democratic neighbours (especially Turkey).
On the other hand, when a military dictatorship with close ties to the United
States and Israel is overthrown by a popular uprising, and the people show a
willingness to elect a government with Muslim sympathies, they give no support.
On the contrary, they provide financial aid to ensure the success of a regime
imposed by another military coup.
Make
what you will of that! And when you’ve finished, answer the following
questions:
Who
loves who?
Who
hates what?
Who
are the real Muslims?
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