One of my
first expeditions out of Istanbul was a school trip. I’d started working at a
small private high school as a teacher of English. My English colleague and I
tagged along with a coach-load of Turkish students and teachers. Our itinerary
took in the small town of Çanakkale on the Asian shore of the Dardanelles, the
archeological excavations of Troy, and the Aegean seaside village of
Behramkale, alongside another historical site, the ancient city of Assos.
I was really looking forward to seeing the ruins of Troy, but it turned out that Çanakkale was, in fact, the most important destination for us. It was 17 March and the town was buzzing. We stayed overnight in a hotel, rose early on Saturday morning and found vantage points near the town square to watch the parade. There was music and dancing, military bands, students from dozens of local schools regaled in traditional folk costumes – all the ingredients of a major celebration. And what was the occasion? Çanakkale Victory Day.
I was really looking forward to seeing the ruins of Troy, but it turned out that Çanakkale was, in fact, the most important destination for us. It was 17 March and the town was buzzing. We stayed overnight in a hotel, rose early on Saturday morning and found vantage points near the town square to watch the parade. There was music and dancing, military bands, students from dozens of local schools regaled in traditional folk costumes – all the ingredients of a major celebration. And what was the occasion? Çanakkale Victory Day.
Well, it’s
possible that you may not immediately get the significance of this, so let me
go on. After the parade, we crossed to the European side of the strait and were
taken on a guided tour of the graveyards, museums and battle sites of what we
grandsons and daughters of the British Empire know as the Gallipoli Campaign.
We saw row upon row of gravestones in neatly kept cemeteries preserving the
memory of the estimated quarter of a million young men who died in this tragic
sideshow of World War I. We climbed to the highest point on the peninsula, Conk
Bayırı in Turkish, known in English as the ridge of Chunuk Bair. There we saw
the larger-than-life statue of Mustafa Kemal, the Turkish colonel whose success
here began his rise to eventual founder and first president of the modern
Republic of Turkey.
Nearby, on
the ridge whose name is immortalised in a play by New Zealand author Maurice
Shadbolt, there is another, slightly smaller monument. No statue adorns it –
merely a laconic inscription in English, ‘From the Uttermost Ends of the
Earth’. It commemorates the hundreds of New Zealand soldiers who died while
capturing and holding, for a brief 48 hours (undoubtedly an eternity to the few
who survived) this desolate peak which, it is said, held the key to the entire
campaign.
Of course
others died too. West Country men, from Gloucestershire and Wales fought and
died alongside the New Zealanders . . . and hundreds of Ottoman soldiers fell
too, urged on by their commanders who well understood the strategic importance
of Conk Bayırı. They recaptured the ridge on 10 August, 1915, and Allied forces
never again succeeded in getting so near to achieving their goal, though they
remained four months more on the peninsula, pouring out their blood on the
beaches, the slopes and in the ravines of Gallipoli, before the bitter Thracian
winter convinced their commanders that the campaign was a lost cause.
Anyway, I
guess you’re with me now. You’ve realised that the futile exercise in human
slaughter we refer to as the Gallipoli Campaign, is known to the Turks as the War or Battle of Çanakkale. They didn’t have much to celebrate after the so-called Great
War, so they are justifiably proud of their success in defending their homeland
against Allied invasion. What bothered me, however, as I toured the trenches,
trying to imagine the carnage that had taken place here, eighty years before, was .
. . how come the Turks are celebrating their victory on March 18, when we
hadn’t even got here till April 25?
My first
thought was that it might have something to do with the Islamic calendar. After
all, the Ottomans continued using the old lunar reckoning based on the Prophet
Muhammed’s journey to Medina, right up until their final dissolution. But, no –
18 March, it seemed, was 18 March; and 25 April, by anybody’s calculation,
comes five weeks later, so long as they occur in the same year, which they did,
on this occasion: 1915.
What to
make of that? So I did a little digging, and it turned out that the Turks, of
course, have a very good reason for their choice of dates.
It’s
important to understand, first of all, what exactly the ANZACs and other sons
of the British Empire were doing on that desolate peninsula, some 2000
kilometres from the action on the Western Front. In fact, the situation in
France and Belgium had bogged down pretty early on in the war. First Lord of
the British Admiralty, Winston Churchill, came up with the idea of supporting
Russia to mount a major offensive from the east. Problem was, the only
realistic supply route for Russia was via the Black Sea and the Bosporus
Straits, which were controlled by the Ottoman Empire, who, of course, were
fighting on the German side. So, you take out the Ottomans, open up the
Bosporus to Allied traffic, bolster up the Russkies and pincer the Germans and
their allies by opening up a second major front in the east. Very neat. And who
better to sort out the Ottomans than the Royal Navy, in those pre-air force
days, the world’s premier fighting force.
Unfortunately,
it didn’t work. The Ottomans had had fortifications on the Dardanelles for 500
years, and, with a little help from their German allies, had some fairly
serious shore-based firepower at a point where the straits are less than two
kilometres wide. They’d also had sufficient warning of the impending assault to
lay mines as an extra deterrent. Nevertheless, the British, aided by the
French, felt confident of their naval superiority, and sent a force of eighteen
battleships plus assorted cruisers and destroyers to force their way through to
Istanbul. Despite possessing such imposing names as ‘Irresistible’
and ‘Inflexible’ (and their French equivalents) three battleships
were sunk and three more severely damaged. Discretion was deemed the better
part of valour, and the Entente navies retired to lick their wounds. The sea
approach was crossed off the list of strategies, and Allied thoughts turned to
Plan B.
Plan B?
You guessed it – a land invasion of the Gallipoli Peninsula aimed at
neutralising the Ottoman shore defences so that the battleships could sail
through with less discomfort, heave to in front of the Sultan’s Palace in
Istanbul, and order the Grand Turk and his Sublime cohorts to come out with
their hands up. Well, Europeans had been making jokes about ‘The Sick Man of
Europe’ for so long that they didn’t expect much serious opposition. Perhaps a
little less gung ho jingoism, and some knowledge of history might have resulted
in a more realistic approach. It hadn’t been that long since the Ottoman army
was feared throughout Europe; and while they were no longer threatening to
overrun Christendom, they might have been expected to put up stiff resistance
to an invasion of their homeland.
Carrying
out an invasion from the sea is a notoriously difficult military activity. The
Allied forces achieved it at Normandy in 1944, as a result of elaborate
planning, enormous investment of manpower, equipment and supplies, huge naval
and air force support, not to mention the participation of the United States of
America. Even so, there were horrific casualties. In 1915 aerial warfare was in
its infancy, and naval bombardment seems to have been as much of a curse as a
blessing for the Allied troops on the ground. Nevertheless, Plan B went ahead.
Regiments of young men from all parts of the British Empire were landed on
Gallipoli beaches to face the machine-guns, artillery and bayonets of
entrenched and determined troops fighting for the defence of their homeland.
Predictably,
Plan B was a worse failure than Plan A. A two-day naval engagement was followed
by a nine-month attempted invasion. Where the loss of three battleships and around
1000 sailors had been deemed unacceptable, a war of attrition was allowed to
continue from April 1915 until January 1916, in which hundreds of thousands
were sent to die in inhuman conditions with no realistic hope of success.
Some
semblance of justice can be said to have been effected with the metaphorical
rolling of heads that followed back in London after the withdrawal from
Gallipoli. Winston Churchill lost his prestigious job as First Lord of the
Admiralty. The British War Secretary, Lord Kitchener, kept his job, but lost
his reputation, and, in fact, died the following year. General Sir Ian
Hamilton, overall commander of the campaign, was nudged into retirement, as was
General Sir Fredrick Stopford, who is reputed to have slept through the landings
at Suvla Bay which he was, in theory, in charge of. The Liberal Government of
Prime Minister Herbert Asquith lost its majority and was forced into a
coalition with Conservatives led by David Lloyd George, who not long after,
replaced him as Premier.
Little
enough consolation for the families of the men who had died; and it is even
more shocking to learn that, as far as the Turks are concerned, the war had
been won before the first Allied soldier set foot on those fateful
beaches. The Royal Navy was the number one fighting force in the world at
the time, and if they had succeeded in forcing a passage through the
Dardanelles, the war, for the Ottomans at least, would have been pretty much
over. Turning back His Majesty’s battleships reduced the threat to a land
invasion, which the Ottoman military backed themselves to repel.
As, in
fact, they did, despite the best efforts of the Allied soldiers who fought and
suffered above and beyond the call of duty for upwards of eight months. In
later years, as the truth of the horror and crass stupidity came out, one
positive has been the growth of a sense of nationhood among the former colonies
that sent men to fight for Britain. For the Turks, of course, the Çanakkale War
threw up their one victorious commander, who subsequently went on to lead the
struggle to establish the Republic of Turkey from the ashes of the Ottoman
Empire. Thousands of pilgrims who journey to the peninsula of Gallipoli on 25
April this year, and are welcomed by locals in a spirit of friendship, will
have cause to remember his magnanimous words:
Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives... You are now
lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no
difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by
side now here in this country of ours... You, the mothers, who sent your sons
from faraway countries, wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our
bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land, they have become
our sons as well.
________________________________________________________
As an epilogue to the foregoing, I would like to mention an interesting
tale I came across recently while reading a novel by the Turkish author, Buket
Uzuner. One detail of the Gallipoli campaign that is often mentioned in Allied
reports is the fact that the first landings were made in the wrong place.
Instead of coming shore on a gently sloping sandy beach, the unfortunate
soldiers found themselves facing steep ravines and cliffs. Generally the
mistake is attributed to the pre-dawn darkness in which the landings were made.
In her 2002 novel, ‘The Long White Cloud’, Ms Uzuner has one of her
characters, Ali Osman say:
. . . [A]ccording to local legend, Turkish fishermen noticed an
unfamiliar buoy moored out near Kaba Tepe and grew immediately suspicious,
being already in a wartime state of mind. They reported the incident to police
headquarters in Gallipoli, then, that same night, with the help of a few
soldiers, moved the buoy fifteen hundred metres north to Arıburnu Cove, a most
unsuitable place for a military landing. At the time, there was only one Turk
who believed that the enemy might land at the Arıburnu/Anzac Cove, and that was
a colonel named Mustafa Kemal. Indicating that even the Turks did not take the
signal buoy very seriously at the time.’
I haven’t been able to verify the story, but it’s an interesting and not
implausible one, it seems to me.
This is a very informative welcoming message for Anzacs who would like to visit Çanakkale this year. Thanks for sharing.
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