We live near a street in Istanbul
called Baghdad Avenue. Probably if you headed down it in a southeasterly
direction, and didn’t take a wrong turning along the way, you might actually
end up in that legendary city on the Tigris River. In our part of the world,
however, it is a boulevard of brand-name stores, up-market bars, restaurants
and cafes - a hangout for well-heeled matrons, reincarnated middle-aged bikies on
Harley Davidson hogs and YUMTUMs (young upwardly mobile Turkish urban middle classes).
Despite its location on the Asian side of the city, you would be hard pressed
to find a more European-looking district in this megalopolitan bridge between
East and West.
Kicking a football for justice and democracy |
Our stretch of Baghdad Avenue is
situated in the administrative precinct of Kadıköy, home also to the Fenerbahçe Football Club, one of
Turkey’s Big Three Istanbul clubs. Support for “Fener” is strong around here, and I would be wary of making known my
preference for Beşiktaş, a second
member of that sporting triumvirate. Locals are also proud to have it understood that their mayor belongs to the CHP (Republican People’s Party), staunch
upholders of Kemalist secularism and bitter foes of the AK Party that has
governed Turkey for the past twelve years.
Last weekend there was a gathering
in Baghdad Avenue. Residents were called upon to show their support for
justice, democracy and the Fenerbahçe
Football Club. Banners were waved, the club’s yellow and blue and the nation’s
red and white; placards brandished emblazoned with the catchy but
untranslatable pun: “Adalete Fener Yak”
(“Light a torch for justice” – with a
play on the double meaning of Fener,
named after a lighthouse formerly located on the coast nearby). Our neighbours
expressed in one breath undying loyalty to their beloved football team and
deep-seated hatred of the Prime Minister and his government.
I received notification the other day of a
workshop to be held at Brookes University, Oxford, UK. The theme apparently is “Bridging Divides: Rethinking Ideology in
the Age of Protests.” Organisers observed that anti-government protests in
Turkey last year seemed to unite an eclectic community of agitators: attractive
(and educated) young women in red dresses, anarchist youth, respectable aunties
wielding slingshots, Kurdish and Turkish nationalists, secular Kemalists,
headscarved anti-capitalist Muslims and chanting football fanatics. This evidently encouraged them to ask “(1) whether similar trends have been observed in other countries and
(2) to what extent political ideologies have become obsolete in today’s
politics and society. In brief, we are interested in learning how and to what
extent ideological divides have been transcended during the recent
anti-government demonstrations in different parts of the world such as Turkey,
Greece, Egypt, Brazil, Europe, and the USA.”
Turkey's next prime minister? President? |
Well, I wish those people at “Changing Turkey” good luck in seeking a common factor in such a
disparate group of countries. Greece, Spain, Ireland and the other PIIGS
nations, yes – reacting against demands by Germany and the IMF that the common
people tighten their belts so that bankers and financiers of the world can
continue to live beyond our means. The UK and the USA, sure – where 99% of the
population are getting increasingly cynical about the 1%’s excuses for refusing
to spread their wealth around. Egypt’s probably out on its own in that group –
they had a brief fling with democracy before their military (with who knows
what outside support?) stepped in and reinstated the US/Israel-friendly status
quo. Turkey and Brazil probably do have quite a lot in common – maybe we’ll
take a look at that another day.
I just hope the artisans at that Oxford workshop
manage to direct a little cynicism of their own towards the anti-government
demonstrations in Turkey. Every year, two or three Turkish football teams take
part in competitions organised by UEFA (the Union of European Football
Associations) for the top clubs from all nations on the continent – but this
year, both Fenerbahçe and Beşiktaş are absent, having been banned
by the international Court of Arbitration for Sport (CAS), who had determined
that the clubs were guilty of match-fixing in the 2010-11 season. Fenerbahçe also missed the 2011-12 UEFA
Champions’ League tournament as a result of being withdrawn by the Turkish Football
Federation for the same reason. Both clubs unsuccessfully appealed the CAS
decision and the ban stood.
The chairman of the Fenerbahçe club, Aziz Yıldırım, was tried in a Turkish civil court on charges of
fixing six matches and sentenced to six years imprisonment. He is currently at
liberty while his lawyers appeal against the conviction. Interestingly
the Turkish Football Federation has taken no action of its own against the banned
clubs on the grounds that they could find no evidence that the match-fixing
activities had actually affected any results! Wow! Mr Yıldırım, on vacation
recently in Cannes, was quoted as saying
that the court’s decision to jail him was part of a political conspiracy
currently said to be playing out in Turkey.
Well, who can know? There are more things in
heaven and earth than are dreamt of in political studies workshops. Certainly
the Beşiktaş and Fenerbahçe clubs have done a great job of motivating supporters to turn out in the streets chanting confusing double
entendre slogans mixing anti-government sentiment with football enthusiasm. I
heard recently that the Fenerbahçe
club is planning to diversify its interests and open a private university in
Istanbul in the next academic year. Maybe they’ll start a political party too
in time for the next general election.
______________________________________________
PS – As I was about to publish this post an
article appeared in our Sunday newspaper under the headline: “Yeni Muhalefet Fenerbahçe Mi?” (Is Fenerbahçe the new political
opposition?) Among other remarkable claims, the writers draw a parallel between
the years when Turkey’s economy was strong and the years Fenerbahçe won the Turkish Premier League Championship! Apparently
the correlation is high. Perhaps my last sentence was more prescient than I
thought on writing it.
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